A Greco-Roman Gold and Lapis Lazuli Necklace, ca. 1st century BCE – 2nd century CE

This refined collar necklace reflects the distinctive elegance of jewelry created across the ancient Mediterranean during the late Hellenistic and early Roman periods. The piece is composed of two coordinated strands of elongated gold tube beads and small round lapis lazuli beads, arranged to sit closely and comfortably along the neckline. Five hollow-form botanical pendants, worked in high-karat gold, form the focal points of the design. Their softly modeled shapes and incised surface lines evoke stylized seedpods or floral buds, motifs that were closely associated with themes of renewal, fertility, and prosperity.

Each pendant illustrates the technical skill of Greco-Roman goldsmiths. The forms were cut from thin sheet gold, then pressed or shaped over a mold to establish the primary contours and decorative ridges. A flat backing of sheet gold was added and carefully joined at the edges, creating a light yet structurally sound element ideal for suspended jewelry. The resulting pendants show subtle variations in surface detail that indicate their hand-formed origins and the intimate scale on which the ancient craftsmen worked.

The lapis lazuli beads provide a vivid contrast. Their deep blue tone, valued since antiquity and imported through long-distance trade from the mines of Afghanistan, was emblematic of status and refinement. The pairing of these saturated blue stones with warm gold was favored in the Greco-Roman world for its visual richness and symbolic resonance.

When worn, the necklace creates a graceful, symmetrical drape with a slight graduated fall toward the central pendant. Surviving examples of this quality are uncommon, and this piece exemplifies the blending of materials, technique, and artistic sensibility that defined luxury adornment in the early imperial era.

Medium:  Gold, lapis lazuli

Dimensions:  Necklace length: 15 1/4 inches (38.7 cm), Drop length: 8 inches (20.32 cm)

Condition: The necklace has been restrung in modern times for stability and ease of wear. All ancient components, including the gold tubes, lapis beads, and hollow pendants, are intact with light, expected age-related denting and wear. Very good overall condition, with no breaks or losses to the gold elements.

Provenance:  Private West Coast collection, acquired from the trade in the 1980s.